Maine Snowmobiling -
Snowmobiling the Moosehead Lake Snowmobile Trail
This
160-mile snowmobile trail loop is one of the most exciting
and least known new wrinkles in the North Woods.
By Frank Andrews
Even
the name sounds enticing:
The Moosehead Lake Snowmobile Trail. It conjures up all sorts of upcountry images
- vast lakes in mountain country, remote villages where moose outnumber
people, funky backwoods towns where a frontier vibe still prevails,
the places where the road in Maine literally ends and the great
North Woods begin to take over. Five years ago a snowmobile trail
by that name opened, and it indeed traverses some of the most spectacular
terrain in the state, circumnavigating Moosehead Lake. It's one
the most exciting developments in Maine - yet it's largely unknown
except among snowmobilers.
A mini-highway of sorts, the trail takes travelers through some of the woods country made famous during the logging era, drawing a wide circle around the states largest lake and conveniently linking all of the more intriguing places in the region. It climbs up to lofty overlooks, passes through deep forests, stops at outposts like Kokadjo, Northeast Carry, Seboomook, and Pittston Farm, and slide through the cool villages of Rockwood and Greenville, never too many miles from food and fun.
And sledders have taken to it in droves. "I probably see 500 sleds or more on a Saturday, says Ken Twitchell at Pittston Farm, a legendary rustic inn and eatery twenty miles from Rockwood that dates back to the days of lumbering and river running. Thanks to its down-home food, serve up family style, it's become a particularly popular stop on the trail.
Greater
Moosehead has always attracted snowmobilers, but until 1995 it
offered only a haphazard collection of trails and byways. The Moosehead
Trail links all the area's amenities together, providing sledders
with signs, information, and a well groomed run, and it has increased
business considerably, says innkeeper Twitchell. "Some ride in
for a cup of coffee, others for a meal, some stay a day, others stay
several days. They'll go one direction one day and another the next.
Or they'll do the whole loop. It's a great trip.
The idea of making a snowmobile trail a trip in itself was key in creation of the loop. "What makes the Moosehead Trail unique in Maine, " says Bob Meyers of the Maine Snowmobile Association, "is that it was the first loop that was actually developed as a loop trail. Sure, there are plenty of places where trails connect and you can make a circuit, but this was the first loop that was laid out intentionally as a loop and promoted as a destination."
The
trail was planned such that sledders can do the whole thing in
a long day if they really push, leaving their trucks behind in Greenville
in the morning and returning to them by evening. Or they can take
a leisurely pace, savoring the sights and spending the night somewhere
just off the trail. Services and surprises await every twenty miles
or so, from gas pumps and general stores to lunch counters and cozy
cabins. In between are long stretches of prime Maine woods country,
moose crossings, and all. Trail runners can take in the vistas, from
Blair Hill, just outside Greenville, where the lake seems to stretch
forever into the distance: they can visit the scruffy village of Kokadjo;
have a bite at Raymond's Country Store and Camps in the Northeast
Carry and watch Shirley Raymond feed the giant herds of deer; or zip
off the trail to see the wreck of a B-52 bomber near Blair Hill. They
can climb Big Squaw Mountain, a ski hill near the southwest corner
of Moosehead, or head up the hillside of Mount Kineo, the soaring
felsite cliff the lords over the lake. They might skip over to Lazy
Tom Bog, a nearby moose hot spot on paper-company land beyond Kokadjo,
or get their kicks by crossing frozen Moosehead on Route 66, another
snowy "highway: that combines with the Moosehead Trail to make
a shorter loop within the loop. Rooms are available at any number
of spots along the way - a variety of inns and motels in Greenville,
from the posh Blair Hill and Greenville Inns, to simply comfortable
Kineo View Motor Lodge; at Northeast Carry, where there are rustic
cabins; at Pittston Farm; and at the Birches a famed sporting resort
in Rockwood, among other places. Sleds can be rented at the Birches
and at Kokadjo Trading Post.
Quite aside from physically linking the various tiny communities it runs through, the trail has been a remarkable community effort- each village grooms and maintains nearby stretches, a laborious task even though it's done with the latest equipment. But it makes for a smooth ride. And you don't necessarily have to be a sledder to enjoy it. The trail is open to cross-country skiers, and snowshoers, too (ones with the good sense to keep and eye and an ear out for the snowmachines).
It's an unforgettable loop, and one of the only ways to see some of these sights, some of the best in Maine.
To see a detailed trail map, click here.
Heres a note we received from a Cozy Moose guest who snowmobiled
The Moosehead Trail: